While they provide a very large flat field we noticed some CA. Unfortunately it is not manufactured in a multicoated version, and produces prominent internal reflection artifacts on very bright stars. If you have the 1.8 version, way to go. The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 is considered to be a full-frame lens because it can accommodate a full-frame image sensor with its 18.8-degree angle of view. enlarge. She's cold? It is worth of it's price?Any links to astrophotos with this lens?Thanks. Its a trade-off, and one that seems to surface time and time again in this hobby. All lenses mentioned below are adaptable to Canon EOS cameras with slim EOS adapters which allow the lenses to focus just slightly past infinity. http://www.idyll.com/laney2014 For those of you that like to pixel-peep, have a look at the single image frame captured using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. If so, which one? That whole rig comes to about $1200, minus the mount. Still, all things considered, I prize this lens very highly and can not imagine giving it up. It really is about talent, creativity, and vision, not gear. in the rain. But I sold it and went back to using a 70-200 (alongside a 24-70). When you buy a lens with fantastic sharpness and image quality at all apertures, you typically expect it to cost $1,200 on up. wew.. If you want autofocus and great value for money, buy the Canon 135mm, as it has almost the image quality of the Samyang, and you can get it for under $1,000 new. For this reason, a combination of a good light pollution filter, and the use of flat calibration frames are recommended. My guidescope is a 5in F5 Jaeger's achromat with a 2.3x Barlow, and a 9mm illuminated reticle eyepiece. fast, sharp wide open, excellent bokeh, value for money, very fast, sharp, gorgeous background blur, world class lens. The image below highlights the creative freedom this lens provides. @juksu - you're such a liar. And because you can shoot between F/2 and F/4, plenty of light reaches the sensor in a relatively short exposure. 135mm F2.0 The optical design includes one extra-low dispersion lens element to control chromatic aberration, contributing to sharp, color-accurate imaging, and each of its lens elements features Ultra Multi-Coating to improve light transmission and reduce ghosting and flare. Released only weeks apart, the Sony 50mm F1.4 GM and Sigma F1.4 DG DN Art are clear competitors. Another thing that makes people go "wow" over the 135mm F2 lens design is the bokeh, which can be so creamy that distant backgrounds almost render as gradients. Personally, I can't stand these circles, and I see them as VERY distracting.Lots of fads come and go, and this is just another one of these fads that some photographers are obsessed with. Are you really using 135 a lot? If you have pictures taken using the Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens, please feel free to share your results in the comments section (links to Astrobin, Flickr or your personal gallery are fine). The Samyang 135mm F/2 easily lives up to its hype and should be near the top of your list of purchases if you are new or experienced in the field of astrophotography. Most small refracting telescopes start in the 300 to 400 mm focal length range, and even these are classed as widefield telescopes. I cant decide whether to clean it up in processing or let it be. Its a joy to work with every time. The Canon is about as sharp as the Samyang, but it has some very slight chromatic aberration. I mount it on my APS-C camera and the focal length literally becomes 216 mm, which is too tight. Its nice to have the F/2. Hate these presumptuous kinds of articles and headlines. Also, the newer and much more expensive 200mm F4 SMC Pentax with the K mount is decisively inferior, showing small but annoying red chromatic aberration. With todays huge variety of digital sensors, each with their own characteristics, in-camera and post-processing etc., much depends on the given combination of your photo gear to create a certain effect. The first shot I ever took with this lens was of my neighbor's cat, as it was sneaking around in a bush. The extent of this influence lies mainly in photographer's perception and creativity.As all arts photography may serve given needs due to numerous reasons with the resulting integrity of the work not necessarily suggesting art.The photographic gear (from lens cleaning tissues up to s/w) is just the tool(s) of a photographer in order to produce its work. For the rest there is Sigma 135 /1.8 Art also fantastic value lens. Now - THAT's a lens everyone should have ;). Unfortunately I haven't more the Canon lens. Thanks.. or.. Clear Skies! . As such, it applies most directly here to areas of an image that are out of focus. My only complaint about this lens is that the depth of the lens shade forces me to remove the shade in order to remove or replace the lens cap (my hands are fairly large). tanie i dobre opinie 9 opatek lub Biznes HUMAN Sport Insect Architektura Specjalne Krajobrazy Martwa natura Podry People 2023 Obiektyw o staej ogniskowej Some lenses are incurable. The model I use feels solid and the barrel is constructed with metal. Here is a short list of great astrophotography targets to shoot at 135mm with this lens: Below, is an incredible example of the types of projects possible with the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 lens. Light falloff (vignetting) gets pretty high (0.73 EV wide open, but drops to 0.3 EV at f/2.8, and only 0.17 EV at f/4. I've tested some of the old Pentax 6x7 lenses with a friend. Great for portraits. It turns out that this. My canon is clear modded and I use a an Astronomik EOS-clip L filter to block the uv and ir. Finally, although we don't explicitly test for it, we have to note that this lens' bokeh (rendering of out-of-focus objects) is really excellent as well. Lagoon and Trifid wide field IC1396 nebula in Cepheus - wide field image. The Heart and Soul Nebulae captured using a DSLR and the Rokinon 135mm lens. Defocus control enables the photographer to use an aperture of f/4 for the subject and to adjust the amount of background blur or the amount of foreground blur. 21P Giacobini Zinner NGC1499 California Barnard 8 Cr399 Coathanger North America and Pelican Veil nebula HORGB M11 cluster area Just like the above samples, most are just bad. Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8. We take OM System's new 90mm prime F3.5 macro lens out and about around Seattle, in search of sunlight, people and very tiny things to get up close and personal with. Technical Specifications Looking for specific info? Images that sing. As it is it is earns a 9. In 3 months I got loosy focus ring. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbrigham/284303834/. At around $900 US very good price for quality no IS. The optical design includes one extra-low dispersion (ED) lens element to control chromatic aberration, and ultra multi-coatings (UMC) to both improve light transmission and reduce flare. if you compare images taken with this lens to those from a 105mm f1.8 ais or a cosina 125mm and you'll see what i mean. In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. For some objects a reflection can take away from the photo because it covers interesting details of the object (Think Alnitak in the Horsehead Nebula). I read and bought it. I wanted to add my experience with some lenses that I thought worthy of being considered too, and some of the equipment that I have used. Overall, the lens feels very solid and well constructed. Standards have risen in recent years. So I sold it for nearly what I bought it for and chalked it up to a learning experience. Shoot shiny metal at a wide aperture and you'll see some very extreme purple fringing. http://www.astrovale-f-2/index.html, Hi Lord_Vader, Otherwise this lens is absolutely incredible. Today I want to talk about another such lens design: The 135mm F2 lens. I'll walk you through all this inc. There was no reason to test any other because, when stopped down to 49mm, F6.1, this lens is simply perfect, comparable to any APO on the market. I got my first 400 around 50 years ago, and I must say that each step forward feels like a revolution, for a while. Optics quality, sharp,very special picture, sharpness, clarity, weight, fast, accurate AF (fringe benefit of f/2), price, no IS, makes you regret buying any zoom lenses, compact, very sharp wide open, good color contrast, bokeh, this is the lens. I know this is a very old article but I was re reading as I mulled over this very point (85/1.4 vs 135/1.8) and I've gotta point out this math is all wrong First off 85->135 is a 1.6x crop and a 1.6x crop will yield 16MP on 42MP bodies (42 / (1.6x1.6) ), ~20MP on the A1, and ~24MP on the A7R IV. This is an amazing lens.Very sharp wide open and no improvement when stopped own. Nice article for beginners.It's all in the eyes of the beholder. I have an old 135/2.5 Takumar that is not bad at all, for the price. Looking forward to allow purchasing the Canon 200mm f/2.8L II USM. The 135mm f2.8 in particular can take amazing photos of the brighter deep sky objects with about 1 second time . ", I'd no problem with that. The screws should be set sufficiently tightly to prevent shift, yet not so tightly as to interfere with fine focusing. We revisit a classic DPReviewTV episode in which Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake shoot a few rolls of Fujifilm's Acros 100 II, and a few frames on the X-T3 in Acros film simulation, to find out. the EOS-clip filters are compatible with all EF lenses but not with the EF-s. There are a lot of photo/video cameras that have found a role as B-cameras on professional film productions or even A-cameras for amateur and independent productions. After weeks with a production Fujifilm X-T5, Chris and Jordan have some final thoughts. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. Begun in 1975, the Pentax K-mount legacy continues to this day. Thanks, I would! Try to have eyes and nose / lips all in focus. The 135mm Rokinon with the Canon Rebel seems like a pretty good setup. Over the years, I have tried more than two dozen telephoto lenses, until I finally found three or four perfect solutions. What you need to know is the author is a hobbyist and hands his images over to px500, the bottom of the barrel so of course he is impressed, he doesnt use top flight gear day in, day out to earn his pay. In fact, in my test shots, I noticed that the red channel was a little softer than green and blue. Pentax seems to have put more emphasis than others on keeping the resolution uniform all over the field. She doesn't look like she is there. Other times, like the Witch Head Nebula, I love seeing the star responsible for the object in all its glaring glory! That is the story.#7: Leaves.That doesn't work. Extrapolating from this, minimum recommended guidescope power is 120x for the 300mm telephoto, 80x for the 200mm, and 55x for the 135mm. The California Nebula. Deserves to be in the camera hall of fame. It is sharp but somehow not that analytic way as a macro lens. You may need to refocus your subject as the temperature changes throughout the night. That is kind of the point I am trying to make -- These pictures are really not in another league. Sigma 105/2.8 DG EX Macro (very sharp at infinity) Same thing as people mistake "shallow DOF" to blurry background. This article was originally published on Micael's blog, and is being republished in full with express permission. Since Eric was so generous to share his images with me, I had to include his photo of the Rho Ophiuchi cloud complex as well. Fantastic IQ & Bokeh. As you can see, the magnification of the lens used will dictate the type of projects you shoot. Interesting that ancient, low-tech (no ED glass, no special coatings) non-apo telephotos could produce decent results compared to something modern. The shallow depth of field present at its maximum aperture does indeed create a pleasing bokeh. If you're using or are looking to buy the Samyang or Rokinon 135mm F/2, please let me know what you're imaging with it or any questions you may have in the comment section below. And if you want autofocus, I would recommend the Canon 135mm f2.0L, which is incredibly light for its performance at just 750g. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.No disagreement here. I've seen several listed but here are more to consider. It seems lazy to me. With a good smartphone, some creative legwork, and the photos scaled down as they are in this article you can make photos that at least just as good. Wonderful, smooth bokeh. For my purposes, this is a spectacular lens. This gives me the power of 162x, which is barely sufficient for my 420mm fl APO astrograph at full camera resolution. Photos posted are pleasing but I'd be into seeing something new. You can also find him as @mwroll on Instagram and 500px. Above $2500 cameras tend to become increasingly specialized, making it difficult to select a 'best' option. USM works so quickly and accurately, it puts my 24-70/f2.8L to shame. Exterem apertures are extrems (wether it's full open or closed) that should be reserved for extrem cases. This lens is available on Amazon for most camera bodies. here are some links to some pics taken with the lens: Has a good weight to it. Geometric distortion is lower than one would expect, at 0.15% pincushion maximum, with an average of 0.07%. My copy is 12-years-old and still delivers at over 75 weddings a year. To achieve creamy bokeh, a lens should have a wide maximum aperture and a long focal length. Valerio, Electronically Assisted Astronomy (No Post-Processing), Community Forum Software by IP.BoardLicensed to: Cloudy Nights, DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging, This is not recommended for shared computers, Back to DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging, Buckeyestargazer 2022 in review and New Products. It disagrees completely with the definition that you give! This is the EF-M series version. Contrasty but not harsh. So.. its like there is one F stop not being used by the lens..how do you know what click is for what F stop?? It is the lens I use as a reference point to compare all new lens acquisitions to after purchase to determine if they need to be returned for repair or replacement. Focus are dead on with my Fullframe or APS system. The Canon 135mm f/2 is no less impressive on a full-frame camera. Would you recommend a collar/support for the lens? Based on my handful of experiences with this lens in the backyard, I have found these traits to hold true. It would not surprise me if modern lenses were useable at full aperture. Crazy fast AF! I am not really looking at buying anything else, though. Tamron has announced its 11-20mm F2.8 Di III-A RXD ultra-wide angle zoom will be made available for Fujifilm X-mount. I thought I would miss shooting at 200mm, but 135mm is long enough for most portraits and gives a decent amount of compression. These lenses can be had on eBay in mint condition for around $70, and are probably the most price efficient optical instrument in the world. I would recommend buying it used if you want to save some money, with the added benefit that you can re-sell it at the same price as you bought it for, effectively giving you the opportunity to "rent it" for free. As I posted on the Petapixel variant of this article, cropping a 85/1.4 shot to a 135mm-equivalent FoV gives you approx. I prefer this lens than the 70-200/2.8. With no general agreement about what Bokeh is it is little wonder that there is so much argument and disagreement. Be careful with the focus. Check them out for yourself! I have the Sony SaL 135F1.8 Zeiss Lens and think that is excellent. Preaching to the choir! Then you should have tried the 180mm nikkor ED, the old one, which is the favorite tool of a lot of astrophotographers. Click on following link to view images So now your 42Mpix A7rII is only a 10.5Mpix. In this configuration, the lens is still a very fast F3.4. Please send your photos of the Andromeda galaxy. i too use the 135mm nikkor[ with a MB speed booster on fuji x for outstanding separation], also a samyang 85 mm 1.4 nikon mt with speedbooster also gives excellent separation, yes, I think I have read that the old Nikkor 135mm f3.5 was even sharper than the f2.8. I seems many people he are confused about the meaning of the word. This criticism refers to rare cases when your main subject matter is flat and completely inside the limited DOF range while the rest of the image is outside. It is by far the fastest focusing, best bokeh, and lowest light lens you will ever find. About 3 hours of exposures split between Narrowband, Broadband and short exposure shots to make an HDR image. At under 900USD, it's a steal. By the way, I still enjoy using my very sharp Sears 135mm, PKA mount lens. Writer Anno Huidekoper takes a look at what this manual SLR can do and how it stacks up to its contemporaries. Asahi Optical's Pentax KX was one of the first cameras with this lens mount, acting as a midrange model in the lineup. The downsides of this configuration are that shooting wide open can make focusing difficult. On the 135/2 all you've got is the bare metal. (purchased for $700), reviewed June 13th, 2009 Oh and it's stabilised. The lens arrived next day, less than 24 hours after I hit the order button. In the highest contrast situations there's a hint of both purple and green fringing but both are minor and easy to remove with software. I just wish this lens had IS for low light and portraits with flash. Best lens for portraiture I've ever tried. With an effective focal length of roughly 216mm when coupled with a Canon crop sensor body, the field of view is nearly identical to the one youd find on a full-frame camera with a 200mm telephoto lens. With this lens you don't need to do much if any post processing. The Best Telephoto Lenses for Astrophotography. It is really thanks to another commentator pointing out something that finally makes sense out of this mess: This article is by someone who just got his first first telephoto ever, and is writing about how he feels when he is trying it out. Really excels as indoor sports lens on a crop camera. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbrigham/314771597/ My Rokinon 135F2 on my crop body is fun to play with.. a budget lens with budget construction on a discontinued camera system.. but hey im just a ham and egger https://flic.kr/p/21nj82V, I had a Canon 135/2 for a while, but I decided I preferred the 100 L used not as a Macro but a normal lens (which my non-L USM 100 Macro was quite poor for). The lens is so crisp that the diaphragm blade pattern is visible on point light sources shot at large aperature. Neutral yet very nice colours. I've been using a vintage FD 135/3.5 on my A7R IV as a compact tele option, often alongside a tiny Samyang 75/1.8. I had a 70-200 f/4 that i used unstopped at 200 with awesome results. Also, when used as recommended, and properly guided at full camera resolution, they are all comparable to a field-corrected APO, producing perfect images from edge to edge which can be easily cropped 25% with no evidence of aberrations. I just got the Samyang version of this lens and used it with my Canon 3ti on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer. Tack sharp at f/2. Also, I used to have a Nikon 180/2.8 ED IF AF and 300/4 ED IF AF. (purchased for $1,000), reviewed January 1st, 2007 My first shot was a section of the constellation Sagittarius that included the Lagoon Nebula, and Trifid Nebula. I've recently started using 135 and 200mm lenses from the 1970s with my mono CCD and they've proven very useful for imaging large emission nebulae. (purchased for $1,100), reviewed August 12th, 2009 You won't get the excessive background blurr -- which for the beginning photographer may actually be a good thing. It can isolate subject while being tack sharp with beautiful creamy bokeh when used at f2. I think they are an outstanding value for any wide-field astrophotographer, and are particularly suitable for newcomers. The Canon 135mm f/2 is no less impressive on a full-frame camera. They're heavy, and expensive, but you can carry one lens instead of three, and can vary the compression and field of view to a significant degree - from nearly normal, to long portrait focal lengths. I am still very proud of some of the photos I shoot with a Pentax O450 15 years ago - a good smartphone camera today is at least as capable. i also have the 300mm f4.5 non ED nikkor which is quite nice . Otherwise, on FF body this lens is wonderful. I am telling them - don't! 2. Latter looks quite professional.. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. However, stepping outside to polar align a small star tracker and attach a DSLR and lens is quick and painless. Part of it might be that they were designed for film photography and modern digital sensor are far more demanding in terms of optical quality. But she might as well be in front of a green screen. To actually learn to compose the photos so that the background complements the image instead of being something that must be blurred away. After a three-year hiatus, we've been at the return of the CP+ camera show in Yokohama, Japan. Do I wish it were manufactured with metal? Fast focus, Super sharp, Well built, Awesome for low light. Many students just wanted to take better snapshots of family, vacation, pets, etc. I have no experience with that lens, Jerry Lodriguss however published a review of that lens on his websitehttp://www.astropix.NIKON_180MM.HTM. I love the lens for my modified Sony a6000! The flat lens hood is great for taking flat frames after a night of astrophotography. BirdDog P240 40X NDI PTZ Camera. Perhaps I missed it, but did you use a clip-in light pollution filter with your 60D and this lens? Any good ones apart from the Big Boys. It's an ideal portrait lens. While some people LOVE the bokeh circles (first photo), others hate them and consider them a distraction.The 50mm f/1.8 is hardly a lens to talk about. Photography is art and technology, the latter serving the first.Photography is not something arty with a lot of gadgetry. Given the spot on DPR front page, lots of 'what-lens-should-I-buy' newbies will be spending their money on this one. These include canon lens for night photography along with good budget lenses for astrophotography.

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